Porto Palermo: A Sheltered Ionian Bay with an Ottoman Castle and Cold War History
Porto Palermo Bay — Gjiri i Porto Palermos — is one of the most distinctively layered destinations on the Albanian Riviera. The bay is sheltered, almost circular, and faces south into the Ionian Sea, approximately 15 km south of Himara. At its centre, on a narrow triangular peninsula connected to the mainland by a thin strip of land, stands the Castle of Porto Palermo — a limestone fortress built at the beginning of the 19th century by Ali Pasha of Tepelena, the Ottoman-era ruler who controlled much of southern Albania and northern Greece. At the bay's northern end, a 650-metre tunnel bored through the rock once housed submarines of the Albanian Navy. Both the castle and the tunnel are visible and accessible. The beach is sheltered, clear, and largely undeveloped.
← Back to Beaches in AlbaniaWhat Makes Porto Palermo Special
Most Albanian beaches are defined by their natural features alone. Porto Palermo is defined by the combination of three things: the natural shape of the bay, the 200-year-old castle that occupies its central headland, and the Cold War history that occupies its northern corner. No other beach in the country offers this range of layers in one location.
The castle was built by Ali Pasha of Tepelena, probably on the site of an earlier Venetian fortification. It is triangular in plan, with a pentagonal tower at each corner, built in limestone that has weathered to match the surrounding rock. The entrance to the fortress bore an inscription that translated as: "Whoever dares to touch these walls, the black viper will eat his eyes out." The castle was declared a Cultural Monument in 1948 and now functions as a museum open to visitors daily. The roof offers a direct view over the bay and the Ceraunian Mountains.
The submarine base was built in 1969 during the Enver Hoxha era, after Albania expelled Soviet forces from the country and retained four Whiskey-class submarines. The 650-metre tunnel was cut into the rock of the northern headland to shelter the vessels from aerial attack. The submarines are long gone and the base is abandoned and closed to the public, but the concrete portal at the tunnel entrance is clearly visible from the road and its scale gives a concrete sense of the Cold War's footprint in this remote bay.
Sand, Pebble or Rocky?
The beach at Porto Palermo is primarily pebble and small stones, with sandy sections near the castle isthmus where the tide and current have deposited finer material. The pebble is smooth and rounded. Water shoes are useful for the entry. The water in the bay clears quickly over the stony seabed.
Water Depth and Clarity
The enclosed bay shape limits wave action and keeps the water calmer than open coast beaches. Clarity is good to excellent — better than at many open-coast beaches because the bay's shape reduces turbulence. Depth increases gradually from the pebble shore. The swimming conditions are straightforward, and the calm water makes the bay suitable for kayaking and snorkelling around the castle base.
Is It Safe for Swimming?
Yes. The bay is sheltered and calm. The pebble entry benefits from water shoes. There are no lifeguards and no commercial supervision. The water near the submarine tunnel entrance at the bay's northern end is within the restricted area of the former base — do not swim into that section.
How to Get to Porto Palermo
By Car
From Himara, drive south on the SH8 for ~8 km (15 min). The castle and bay are on the right side of the road. Turn toward the parking area on the isthmus near the castle entrance. Paved road. Free parking. From Saranda: ~45 km north, ~50–60 min. Porto Palermo is just past Qeparo village.
By Bus
From Himara, take any minibus running south toward Qeparo or Saranda and ask to be dropped at the Porto Palermo Castle stop. Short walk from the road to the castle entrance. Fare from Himara: ~100 ALL. Return: flag a northbound minibus from the SH8.
By Boat
Boat tours from Himara include Porto Palermo Bay as a stop on some itineraries. The bay is calm and suitable for anchoring. Approaching from the sea gives the best view of the castle on its triangular peninsula.
Castle Entry
Castle of Porto Palermo: open daily 9am to 6pm. Entry fee 300 lek (3 EUR) paid in cash at the gate. Allow 45 min to an hour for a visit. No card payment accepted at the gate.
Best Time to Visit Porto Palermo
May through October is the practical window. The castle is open year-round (Monday to Sunday, 9am to 6pm) but the beach infrastructure — limited as it is — only operates in summer. June and September offer the most complete experience: the castle and beach are both accessible, the bay is at its clearest, and the summer crowds that affect Himara and Ksamil barely register here. July and August see the highest visitor numbers — still modest compared to Riviera beaches proper.
October through April: the beach and bay are accessible year-round. The castle operates; the beach has no services. Off-season the bay has a particular stillness that makes it worth visiting for the architecture and the history even without swimming.
Amenities and Facilities
Sunbeds & Umbrellas
A small informal sunbed operation runs near the castle isthmus in summer. Coverage is minimal. Do not rely on availability — bring your own mat and shade if sunbed service matters to you.
Bars & Restaurants
The Porto Palermo Restaurant near the SH8 road serves Albanian seafood and grilled dishes. Several summer-season bars operate near the beach in July and August. The marina area at the isthmus has a café-bar open in season.
Parking
Free parking at the isthmus near the castle entrance. The lot is informal but usually adequate. Peak summer weekend afternoons are the only time it approaches capacity.
Toilets & Showers
Limited on-site toilet facilities. The Porto Palermo Restaurant and the marina café provide toilet access for customers. No public shower infrastructure at the beach.
Crowd Levels and Atmosphere
Porto Palermo is consistently less crowded than the main Riviera beaches to the north. The dual appeal of history and beach attracts a more varied visitor profile — travellers interested in the castle alongside beach visitors from Himara and Qeparo. The atmosphere at the bay is calm and unhurried. On a typical July weekday, the beach area around the castle has a few dozen people; the bay is quiet.
Weekend afternoons in August bring more visitors but the space — spread around the perimeter of the bay and the castle approaches — is sufficient to absorb them. The porto (marina) at the isthmus occasionally has yachts moored — the sheltered bay is a favourite anchorage for sailors working the Albanian and Greek island routes.
Things to Do at Porto Palermo
Porto Palermo Castle
The most significant Albanian coastal fortress in the south. Entry is 300 lek (3 EUR), open daily 9am to 6pm. Explore the triangular plan, the three pentagonal towers, the internal courtyard, and the roof terrace with bay views. Allow 45 minutes to an hour.
Submarine Base Viewing
The Cold War tunnel portal at the northern bay is visible from the road. The 650-metre tunnel was built in 1969 to shelter Albanian Navy submarines after the Soviet expulsion. The base is closed to the public but visible from the road and from the water.
Swimming and Snorkelling
The sheltered bay is calm and clear. The rocks around the castle base are accessible by swimming from the isthmus beach and reward snorkellers with rock formations and fish.
Kayaking
The calm, enclosed bay is well-suited to kayaking. Bring your own or ask at the marina about rental options in season. The view of the castle from 50–100 metres offshore is the best angle on the fortress.
Day Trip Combination
Porto Palermo works well as a 2–3-hour stop combined with Himara, Borsh, or Qeparo on the same day drive. The castle and beach together do not require a full day.
Porto Palermo in Photos
Where to Stay Near Porto Palermo
For accommodation near Porto Palermo — including properties in Himara (15 km north) and along the surrounding coast — browse the full listings below.
Find Your Stay Near Porto Palermo
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Local Tips and Insider Advice
Nearby Beaches and Day Trips
Borsh Beach
15 km north — the longest beach on the Riviera at 7 km with olive grove backdrop.
Borsh guideQeparo Village
5 km south — a partially abandoned medieval village on the hillside above the coast.
Himara Castle & Town
15 km north — the main historic and commercial centre of the southern Riviera.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. The beach is free. The castle charges 300 lek (3 EUR) entry, paid in cash at the gate.
Yes. The sheltered bay is calm and safe for swimming. The castle is accessible on foot from the parking area without any significant physical demands. Water shoes are recommended for the pebble beach entry.
June and September for the most complete experience — castle and beach both accessible, crowds minimal. The castle is open year-round for off-season visits.
Approximately 8 km south on the SH8, taking about 15 minutes by car.
Free parking at the isthmus near the castle. Space is generally available. Peak summer weekends are the only time it fills.
The tunnel entrance portal is visible from the road at the bay's northern end. The base itself is closed to the public. The government has discussed converting the tunnel into a Cold War museum, but as of 2026 this has not been implemented.